Python
Clone 2 So,
the first python clone is up and running and aside from a few minor finishing
tweaks, it's done. Just need to get some time on it and get stable at speeds
higher than 40kph. After repairing and adjusting my first one, there are
a few things myself and Marcel want to try on the next 2 or 3 we build. In
no particular order, they are: - flip the chainstays over so
the axle is mounted on the bottom. This accomplishes 2 main things:
- raises the pivot for more ground clearance, and
- the
front wheel can be removed for maintenance without having to remove the fender,
like we have to do now
Neither of these issues is a big deal,
but it simplifies the design, and hopefully lightens it too as less metal is required
for a higher frame, and the fender will be much smaller. It will also make
the shifting a little crisper. -
switch from various styles
of bearings for the pivot, to 1/2" rod ends. I rode Mike
Channon's python with rod ends at the pivot, and it rode just fine. It's
much easier to build PLUS we can experiment with different pivot angles by simply
turning a nut, so we can get some real-time feed back on what different angles
feel like and which one(s) are the easiest to learn with. - run
the chainstays straighter, for longer, and bend them up at ~12 degree angle near
the cranks so the chain will miss the chainstays when going for the smallest cogs. This
will raise the BB, in relation to the seat, about 2" or so, but it shouldn't
feel much different when riding. Again, Mike's python had a large BB to
seat height and it didn't feel bad at all.
- switch to 1 1/2"
x 1/2" box for the chainstays instead of the 2" x 1/2"
- build
it with a 20", or possibly a 16" rear wheel so keep the bent shorter
and hopefully lighter
- run the main backbone up, directly under
the seat, parallel to the seat back, then down to the rear wheel. Keeping
the frame low while mounting the seat height at about 12", adds extra weight,
metal and complexity for basically nothing.
- switch to a derailleur
tube so we aren't limited to a 42 tooth chainring (without modifications) like
we are with an E-type derailleur
- switch to a wooden, molded seat,
which will hopefully be more bullet-proof with the crashes when learning how to
ride the python
- mount the seat directly to the backbone, again,
to save complexity and weight
- try our hand at a simple suspension
like everyone else is doing :)
So,
not a small shopping list, but some of the "upgrades" are all hand-in-hand
so they will be pretty easy to incorporate. Onward with the build . . .
| First thing, the new pivot changes.
To the right is a 3D version of the different pivot. Very simple and
should be more than strong enough. The biggest bonus is the ability to adjust
it very easily and we can test angles from 55 up to 80 degrees, or more and see
what they ride like. I'll make a table of the angle, the seat height and
trail changes, and how the new angle feels. | |
| Sept 21, 2005 To the
right is the new python so far - pretty standard, no big changes. You're
probably noticing how the wheel is NOT mounted on top like we wanted to. That's
because I thought I could be clever and make the bottom mount work without major
frame mods to Marcel's front end design, but it didn't work. I hate cutting
up things that work, so I mounted the wheel the way we did the first two pythons,
but I did manage to a) use 1 1/2" x 1/2" box tube, so it's smaller and
lighter, and b) I used a simpler, lighter pivot housing with the 1/2" rod
ends. You can see some scribbling on the side of the chainstay where my
friend and I were working out a little math for how we're going to change the
stays. I have some 1/4"
steel plate cut to 4" x 1 1/2" to bolt the rod ends into, and will run
the backbone up and back at a 25 degree angle (65 degrees) from the pivot. I'll
see how far I need to run it up before bringing it back down to the rear wheel.
I'll make a quick 3D version of it and I want to make it as "Z"
shaped as I can so the front and rear ends are at the same angle. The pivot
is further back and should be closer to where my hips pivot - so I'll see how
that feels. Not sure if the pivot will be too close to the ground or not,
but if it is, I can move the pivot housing closer to the rear wheel and shorten
the pointy rear end a bit. Any pivot angles changes this makes can easily
be accounted for by adjusting the rod ends. Marcel
has made one wooden seat, is making the mold for a second, larger (read "adult"
sized :)) wooden seat, and he's also going to do some small mods to his chain
stay jig to accomodate the front end design changes we've made. More to
follow. | |
| |
Oct 1, 2005 First I decided I
was going to change the design purpose of this python to figure out a couple things.
First, what pivot angle feels best, and secondly, what wheelbase feels the
most comfortable. The pivot angle is easy to adjust because of the rod ends,
and the wheel base will be adjustable by sliding the main backbone and rear wheel
back and forth. By "rough" guestimate, I want to be able to adjust
the pivot from about 58 to 73 or 74 degrees, and the wheelbase from 38" up
to about 50". As I was sort of designing on the fly, I hope I can hit
these objectives without running into too many design problems and compromises.
As a side note, I was experimenting with the "stiffness" of the
pivot, in other words how easy it is to pivot the front back and forth, and it
is pretty easy to set up a preload and increase the stiffness simply by how tight
I tighten the main pivot bolt. As this will be harder to quantify, I'll
just compare it to the couple pythons we already have. |
| | Oct
2, 2005 Construction mods start. Based
on what I now want to do with the python's pivot, I doubt the current pivot tube
design will work - it'll be WAY too close to the ground. So, I stuck another
tube in front of it to get it closer to the rear wheel and give me some more ground
clearance, and lopped the old one off. It's a little more squared off, but
it clears the plate I will bolt the rod ends too, plus it gives a mounting plate
for the front brakes, similar to what I did with the first python clone. Nice
thing about rod ends, is you can slap the pivot housing in much faster and with
less concern about getting the angle right, as you can easily correct it by adjusting
the rod ends. | |
| In the picture, the 1/4" plate
is welded to 1 1/4" x .064" square steel. I wanted to come up
at an angle right from the 1/4" plate, but the tube would have been in the
way of the top rod end bolt and jam nut, so I came back 1 1/2" first, then
up at about 45 degrees. The front end is sitting clamped at pretty close
to 65 degrees, which is where I want to start. The longer diagonal tube
will be cut at about 8" from the ground level, and be cut parallel to the
ground. A horizontal 1 1/4" tube will be welded to it and serve as
the outer wheelbase adjustment sleeve, as well as the seat mount. I wanted
the horizontal backbone to be 8" off the deck, because I'm using a 16"
rear wheel and I want the backbone to slide in and out parallel to the ground
so it doesn't change the pivot angle (much). | |
| This is the rear end. It's a 20"
BMX fork, same kind as on the BHP, but this has a 16" wheel. It's not
all that high quality of a wheel, but it is pretty light, rolls nice, and was
free :) I'm going to reinforce the forks in the middle with a piece of 3/4"
box tube which will also serve the rim brake mount. I have a nice, low RR
Maxxis Hookworm tire that can take 110 psi, so it'll fix up the rear wheel nicely.
I welded a .100 x 1 1/4" box, about 2" long, to the crown of the
fork, and welded to pieces of 1" x 1/4" plate to the sides of it. The
arms have a 3/8" hole drilled through them for he pivot bolt. The sliding
backbone section is made from an 11" long piece of 1" x .125 box tube
with another 2" x 1 1/4" x .100 piece on the pivot end. The box
tube is really thick because it needs to be strong enough to take the bending
and twisting load of connecting the back end to the front end. The sliding
section will be secured with 2 quick releases (I hope :)). The two pincer
looking things are pieces of 1 1/4" box tube welded one to therear end, and
one to the sliding section. They act like book ends with the 1" rubber
stopper between them. As the rear end rotates up, it squashes the stopper.
I don't know if it's firm enough, but I have two bigger stoppers and one
smaller so I should be able to adjust if need be. If all else fails, I can
always slip a piece of steel in between the pincers and make it a hard tail. |
|
| Tomorrow, I want to make
the pinch section of the slider housing/seat support, and start on the seat. More
details as they come . . . |
| | Oct 3, 2005 Tonight
I wanted to get the main pinch tube/seat frame built including the rear seat support.
Time seemed to go faster than I was working, so I only got the main slider
tube done, and got the 4 pieces of EMT cut to length for the seat frame. I
only get about 3 hours, at best, to work on projects during the week, so I need
to plan my work better I guess :) Anyway,
the final adjustments for wheelbase are 42" at the shortest to 48 1/2"
at the longest. This is only basically the same measurements as the BHP
when it was modded the first time, to the wheelbase of the current config. I
wanted to be able to go both shorter and longer to get a good range, but it didn't
quite work out that way. The spring is stronger than the rubber stopper
I originally used and should be fine for anyone under 200 lbs, but in a pinch,
I can always lock the rear end with a metal insert. The BHP has no active
suspension and the ride isn't bad on it, so even if I make this a hard tail, I
think it'll be fine. Tomorrow I want
to get the seat frame on, the rear seat support and get the brake mount on the
rear forks. | |
| | Oct
4, 2005 Got some half decent progress,
I think. Took me an hour and a half total to make the seat. Made it
out of 3/4" EMT and used the same style and jigs as on all my recent seats.
I could have used smaller diameter seat tube, but this is designed for adjustability
and crash-proofing, so I'm not too worried about weight. The top picture
shows the python at 42" wheelbase, the bottom with it stretched out to 48
1/2". The seat angle is a little more upright than the BHP as I think
that will make it a little easier to learn to ride. My daughter is very
excited to learn to ride the new python too. She rides around on her unicycle
just fine, so I think she'll pick up the python balance pretty fast. There
are 2 quick releases on the seat, and two on the pinch joint to allow tool-less
wheelbase adjustment (at least initially). The python comes apart very quickly
and I'm interested to see what the final weight will be. Tomorrow,
I'll finish up the top rear seat clamp, get the rear brake mount welded into the
rear forks, and then all I need to do is lace up the seat cover (which is already
made), reinstall the chain and derailleur, and it's ready for the first test ride.
I've got about 16 hours in it so far. | 

|
| | Oct
6, 2005 Took last night off :) All
work and no play, makes . . . well, you know the rest. So, tonight, I accomplished
all my goals. I finished the seat, added the brake mount/stiffener for the
rear fork, drilled the holes for the seat adjustment, and took the baby out for
its first test ride. To the right is the center section. The whole
thing is made out of 1 1/4"(32mm) x .064"(1.6mm) mild steel. The
two black skewers are the pinch mechanism to hold the rear end's sliding boom.
The two rod ends can be seen at the front, and the holes are for the 6 adjustment
spots for the seat. The 1/2" bolt that goes through the rod ends requires
no washers and no shims. It simply tightens and squeezes the rod end balls
against the pivot tube - and that's it. There is a 4" long section
of 1 1/4" x .100" box that the skewers are mounted to. The thicker
wall makes it a tighter fit on 1" square tube, that slides inside, that is
used for the rear boom. | |
| These are two shots with the PC2
beside the BHP. This is just prior to my test ride. I set it up to
be static in the 4th gear, on the middle ring for now because the testing doesn't
require gear changes as yet. I also don't have any brakes on it yet because
I didn't have time and we can't get it going fast enough to get into real trouble
with it in the test area . . . yet :) You can see the 4 black, quick releases.
Two to pinch the rear frame, and two to hold the seat on. It's a little
shorter overall than the BHP due to the 16" wheel vs the 20", but the
wheelbase is just about identical. The pivot angle is set at 65 degrees,
but when I sit on it, the angle is steeper than that. Not sure what the
angle was because I didn't measure it, but I'll do all that tomorrow at lunch.
At rest, you can see that the PC2 has the same seat back angle as the BHP,
but again, with a rider, it lays back flatter - need to measure that too. With
the seat angle being further back than the BHP, it still feels like I'm sitting
up straighter because of the top of the seat being angled forward and raising
my shoulders and head. It feels very nice. Even though my less-than-narrow
butt pretty much maxxes out the suspension, there's still just a wee bit of spring
left and it really makes a noticeable difference in the ride with the 95 psi front
and 110psi rear tire. I took it for
a few rides and adjusted the wheelbase. I definitely prefer the quick and
nimble handling feel with the wheelbase shortened right up. With a 48"
wheelbase, it feels "slow" to make steering corrections and feels like
it takes a lot longer to accomplish the same kinds of turns and maneuvers. I
like short, that's confirmed. I was also experimenting with the pivot stiffness,
but need to do more experimenting as well as adjusting the pivot angle too. I
really like the way this one rides, even without the experimenting, it feels more
stable and forgiving than the BHP. There are a bunch of new aspects to this
python that the BHP and Marcel's don't have, like suspension and being able to
greatly vary the pviot stiffness, not to mention the angle, and the feel of the
tilted up seat back. Hopefully I'll be able to quantify all these small
differences into something that definitively narrows down the "optimum"
configuration. | |
| Tomorrow, I'll add a rear
brake, put some handle bars on it and make a crash guard for the seat edges. I
also still need to take some pictures of Marcel's seat mould. Maybe I'll
nip on over there tomorrow night and grab some action photos. After that,
I'll stop by the building center and grab some epoxy resin, fiberglass cloth,
and some stiff pink styrofoam insulation to make a new fender mould out of, and
whip up a new fender. A front derailleur post and a little weld clean-up
is also in store. Lots of little (or not so little) details to attend to,
but I'm very happy with it and already have most of the "final" aspects
picked out for my "Ultimate Python Clone" :) | |
19 Jan 06 Ok,
so the "tomorrow" was a little further off than anticipated once other
projects came up, but we're back at the PC2 finally. To the right is what
the PC2 currently looks like. Rides very nicely and much more user friendly
to learn than the BHP was/is. Still needs the fender tabs and a front brake,
but other than that, it's quite rideable. Right
now it's being converted to a tilting delta ice racer for some ice races coming
up. Details here. | |
| | | 27 Mar 07 So,
after a very long time of no updates, the Python 2 is done. Actually, it
has been back to a 2 wheel python for a little over a year now, I've just been
preoccupied with other projects. I put it all back together and painted
it a nice gloss red, and there she is. It is very easy to ride due to both
the seat height and angle, as well as the current pivot angle of about 63º.
I haven't ridden a python in almost a year, so after taking it down off
the wall hook, cleaning it up and pumping up the tires again, I was a little curious
as to how I would do. Going down the driveway I was pretty wobbly as I was
frantically going through my head looking for the memories marked "How
to Ride a Python". I was quite pleased to find that I quickly regained
pretty good control, and after about 3 or 4 minutes of riding, I was back to roaring
around on the road at about 35kph, and really enjoying the python's ability to
do fast, sharp 180º turns. I'm not where I was when I was commuting
every day on the BHP, but I had no worries about riding on the road in and around
traffic. The ½" rod ends were
smooth and tight and still provide a simp[le and robust method of pivot adjustment
for later experiments. I took the spring out of the suspension and tried
a 120lb rated rubber vibration dampener, but alas, my butt is a little too heavy
at the moment and I fully compress it. So, I took it out and put in a ½"
square tube piece to act as a compression tube and turn it into a hard-tail for
the time being. It rides great, and I just have to slow down a little for
big bumps because of the high pressure tires. The only thing I need to do
is switch out the rear derailleur because the tension pulley has a bit of a flat
spot from one of my wipeouts and while it works fine, it sometimes makes a little
extra noise. Aside from that, it's done. | |
The
specs should be close to the following: -
NOTE that the listed specs are when a rider is on the python. The rider's
weight compresses the suspension so the unloaded measurements are different.
| | Original | Delta
Ice Racer | | Pivot Angle: | 59
degrees | same | | Trail: | 11¾"(30
cm) | same | | Seat
height: | 10"(25cm) | same |
| BB height: | 16"(40.5cm) | same |
| BB-Seat diff. | 6"(15.5cm) | same |
| Ground clearance: | 2" (5cm) | same |
| Wheelbase: | 45"(114cm),
but adjusts from 42"(107cm) to 48½"(123cm) | 45¼" |
| Weight: | 28lbs (13kg) | 53lbs |
| BB-FWA: | 14½"(37cm) | same |
| Turning Circle: | 9' (2.75m) | same |
| Length: | 70½"(179cm),
but adjusts from 67½"(172cm) to 73½" | 73"
in ice racer config (~3" longer than normal due to larger rear wheels) |
| Height: | 25"(10cm) | same |
| Width: | 17½"(44.5cm)
to handle bars | 30" (27" track) |
| Weight Bias: | 60/40 front/rear | 55/45
front/rear | | Front wheel: | 26"
x 1 3/8", 95 psi, 9 spd 11 - 34 cassette | same
but with ~300 #6 x 3/8" screws | | Rear
wheel: | 16 x 1.95 Maxxis Hookworm, 110 psi | two
20" x 1.5" with ~250 screws each | | Gear
inches: | 21.41 to 113.45 (don't anticipate needing any
lower than 29 GI) | same | Top |